Nilofer

Volume One · Fifteen shawls

The Pashmina Catalogue

Soft gold of the mountain

Pashmina is combed, never shorn. It is the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goat, carried down from the high plateau, spun by hand and worked by hand again. Each shawl is documented the way the house keeps its records: ground, motif, border, palette, styling.

SHAB-E-GUL, Night of Flowers
Shawl 01

SHAB-E-GUL

Night of Flowers

A midnight garden, opened thread by thread.

Ground
Deep midnight black, fine pashmina
Motif
All-over floral jaal on an ochre medallion field
Border
Ochre boteh border, knotted multicolour fringe
Palette
Black · antique gold · rose · coral · jade
Styling
Worn long, it carries an evening on its own
SEHR, First Light
Shawl 02

SEHR

First Light

Silver-grey shading to charcoal, quiet as morning.

Ground
Silver-grey shading to charcoal
Motif
Dense tone-on-tone floral jaal in slate and pewter
Border
Self-toned edge, softly fringed
Palette
Pewter · ash · faded indigo
Styling
A quiet piece, best over ivory, oat or bone
ZAFRAN, Saffron
Shawl 03

ZAFRAN

Saffron

The colour of the Pampore fields in bloom.

Ground
Deep saffron-mustard
Motif
All-over boteh buti in ink, set in even rows
Border
Plain saffron field, cut fringe
Palette
Saffron · turmeric · ink black
Styling
The strongest colour here. Wear it against black
HASHIA, The Border
Shawl 04

HASHIA

The Border

An open centre so the border becomes the whole design.

Ground
Oat-ivory, undyed pashmina
Motif
Open centre, ornamented border on all four sides
Border
Lapis and gold cartouche, rose florals, fringed
Palette
Oat · lapis blue · old gold · dusty rose
Styling
Draped square so the border frames the shoulders
DARICHA, The Lattice Window
Shawl 05

DARICHA

The Lattice Window

A window frame, and flowers at the sill.

Ground
Warm taupe
Motif
Charcoal windowpane check, embroidered floral sprigs
Border
Self-toned, lightly fringed
Palette
Taupe · charcoal · powder blue
Styling
The everyday piece. It reads as tailoring, not occasion
FEROZA, Turquoise
Shawl 06

FEROZA

Turquoise

The jewel green of quiet water.

Ground
Ivory-cream
Motif
Large aqua paisley; arched pillar motifs at the ends
Border
Clean ivory edge
Palette
Cream · turquoise · sea green
Styling
Tonal ivory dressing lets the aqua do the work
MEHR-E-SIYAH, The Black Sun
Shawl 07

MEHR-E-SIYAH

The Black Sun

Small dark suns held in rows.

Ground
Oatmeal
Motif
Ink-black rosette medallions in a close, even repeat
Border
Narrow self border
Palette
Oat · ink black
Styling
Graphic enough to carry a plain black column
CHARKH, The Spinning Wheel
Shawl 08

CHARKH

The Spinning Wheel

Small wheels at rest, in gold and slate.

Ground
Warm grey-taupe
Motif
Medallion rosettes in gold and slate, evenly spaced
Border
Self-toned, fringed
Palette
Grey-taupe · old gold · slate blue
Styling
Sits beautifully over indigo and steel blue
KEHKASHAN, The Galaxy
Shawl 09

KEHKASHAN

The Galaxy

Stars are scattered, never in rows.

Ground
Olive-gold
Motif
Fine tonal sprays, loosely scattered
Border
Plain, softly fringed
Palette
Old gold · olive · silver-grey
Styling
Warm gold against black. Evening, unornamented
SHAB-O-ROZ, Night and Day
Shawl 10

SHAB-O-ROZ

Night and Day

A white vine flowering through deep black bands.

Ground
Natural grey pashmina
Motif
Broad black bands carrying a white floral vine
Border
Deep black border on all sides
Palette
Natural grey · black · chalk white
Styling
Strongest contrast piece. Keep the look plain
GULBAHAR, Spring Flower
Shawl 11

GULBAHAR

Spring Flower

A vine in copper and old rose.

Ground
Pale grey-lilac
Motif
Trailing floral vine in copper and old rose
Border
Soft self border with fine end panels
Palette
Grey-lilac · copper · faded rose
Styling
The softest in the collection, good for daylight
NEELAM, Sapphire
Shawl 12

NEELAM

Sapphire

The boteh enlarged, and set far apart.

Ground
Warm sand-beige
Motif
Oversized blue-violet boteh, gold outlined, widely spaced
Border
Fine tonal jaal at the edge
Palette
Sand · sapphire · violet · gold
Styling
Scale is the point. Let it fall long and open
KHAMOSHI, Silence
Shawl 13

KHAMOSHI

Silence

Plain across a room; dense in the hand.

Ground
Taupe-grey
Motif
Dense self-coloured jaal, tone on tone, full field
Border
Deeply worked end panels
Palette
Taupe · stone · warm grey
Styling
Reads plain at distance, dense up close
CHAUKHAT, The Frame
Shawl 14

CHAUKHAT

The Frame

A check drawn over a garden.

Ground
Warm beige
Motif
Wide charcoal check laid over a fine tonal jaal
Border
Fringed, self-toned
Palette
Beige · charcoal · stone
Styling
Structured and modern; folds well as a stole
SADA, Unadorned
Shawl 15

SADA

Unadorned

Exactly the colour the goat gave it.

Ground
Natural ivory-pearl
Motif
None. A fine self-textured weave
Border
Clean edge, no fringe
Palette
Ivory · pearl · bone
Styling
The base note of the collection. Wear it with everything

Next Collection

Harud